By
Dharisha Bastians
Beside the aquamarine seas of Keerimalai, at the island’s northernmost tip stands a Hindu holy of holies. One of five Sivan kovils in Sri Lanka, the unique convergence of land, sea and freshwater have etched the significance of the Naguleswaram temple into the Hindu psyche for millennia.
For Hindus, the waters here are doubly sacred. The devoted believe freshwater springs at the site have divine curative properties and the ocean waves lapping at the temple grounds aid the passage of departed souls. For centuries, northern Hindus have travelled to Naguleswaram to scatter the ashes of the deceased into the seas of Keerimalai. Until the death ritual is complete, Hindus believe deceased souls remain restlessly in the mortal world, and the pollution of death remains with those left behind.
In May 2009, caught in a vicious crossfire on a shrinking stretch of beach in the Mullaitivu District, thousands of people – even by the Sri Lankan Government’s own count – could spare no thought for final rites. Shallow graves that were no more than mounds of earth had to compensate for the complex rituals. Sometimes, there were no graves at all. As scores of families fled for cover, they were sometimes compelled to leave the dead behind. Those are the scenes doctors and eyewitnesses on the scene in that final theatre of Sri Lanka’s bloody 26-year civil war have described.






















































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